May 2016 Surprise Unwrapped!
1Granary is a magazine by the students of Central Saint Martins (CSM), a public art school in London. The magazine celebrates the best of CSM talent, past-and-present, discussing fashion, arts and everything in between. With a legacy of legendary designers like Phoebe Philo, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen behind them, surely the students have tons to learn from and evolve their own identity. These students share their exciting journey, pecking at some of the best minds in the creative industry, in this annual print.
The team’s letter up front sets the tone of the issue – an unwavering commitment to talk about concerns that plague the fashion industry, rejecting the idea to conform to the established system that curbs creativity, turning the design industry into glorified assembly lines. The issue covers fashion, photography, arts and the business of it all. From documentary realism to the idea of ‘metamordinist’, the issue carries numerous features and interviews, each of which is aimed at reflecting on new ideas and challenges in the field of art, fashion and design.
Founder, Editor-in-chief | Olya Kuryshchuk
Editor | Osman Ahmed, Jorinde Croese
Fine Art Editor | Daniel Challis
Art Director & Designer | Esa Matinvesi
The entire Business section in the issue made for both a very informative as well as interesting read. Interviews with some of the leading figures in their respective fields sharing an insight into their world where business and passions meet. An interview with HUGH DEVLIN, a luxury specialist lawyer, a power broker behind fashion’s biggest deals (including net-a-porter’s investment in YOOX) talks about what lies ahead for creatives in the fashion industry in the 21st century; ANDREW ROSEN, credited with pioneering the modern idea of ‘contemporary luxury’ (somewhere between mass market and high fashion) talks about what it takes to succeed in the world of fashion, principles we think could easily be applicable to most other fields too. THOMAS PERSSON, art director of cultural publication Acne Paper, talks about the success of the publication and all it took to make it successful.
What is really exciting about the magazine is the young voice that drives it. Students are not merely looking to spot trends but are really speaking out loud about all that’s wrong with the industry too. Wouldn’t it surprise you to know the fact that the fashion industry is the second biggest polluter after the oil industry? The issue discusses the non-sustainability of this industry. In ‘Real Talk’, the writer discusses the immediate need to address the unsustainable pace of growth of high street fashion which is all too well documented in ANDREW MORGAN'S documentary ‘The True Cost’ exposing the hypocrisy of fashion industry; and the ‘second-wave luxury’ - an alternative to the crushing pace of the fashion garment industry, which encourages appreciation for history, craftsmanship and uniqueness of the fashion garments.
Quest for a ‘good’ fashion title is never easy. While the market is brimming with titles in this genre, the task of finding something truly unusual and uniquely exciting is more than just a challenging task. We are glad to have broken the depths of our search to surface triumphant with ‘1Granary’, a true jewel. Hope our readers enjoyed reading it as much we enjoyed locating it for them.